The latest American Custom Yachts 68 is getting her final touches. Look for her to be chasing marlin in the near future!
The latest American Custom Yachts 68 is getting her final touches. Look for her to be chasing marlin in the near future!
Ritchie Howell is perhaps one of the most interesting builders in sportfishing. While Ritchie is a pleasure to talk to, his boats speak for themselves. In this Dock Talk, Howell breaks down his boat building philosophy and describes all that goes in to making a Ritchie boat.
SmartSeal® Prevents Shaft Seal Damage or Failure from Over-Temperature Conditions
Lake City, South Carolina, July 9, 2019 –
Gemeco is pleased to introduce a unique and innovative solution for early detection and prevention of shaft seal failures on recreational, commercial, and municipal vessels. New from Tides Marine, their SmartSeal® Temperature Sensors monitor the temperature of a boat’s shaft seals and triggers a series of alarms when the water temperature exceeds the normal operating temperature range. “SmartSeal is an inexpensive and easy solution that works with any brand of shaft seal and operates as a standalone system or communicates over an NMEA2000® network, or both,” stated Peter Braffitt, General Manager of Gemeco Marine Accessories. “The sensor’s ability to communicate early warnings of potentially costly or life-threatening failures provide peace of mind to both family and crew,” Braffitt added.
SmartSeal solid-state temperature sensors detect an increase in water temperature within the shaft seal and will cause a warning alarm to sound, providing the crew with advanced notice of a problem. Further temperature increases trigger a critical alert indicating that a seal failure will occur if not corrected. Designed for quick connection to Tides Marine’s SureSeal® products, this system also works with other manufacturers’ dripless shaft seals by simply changing the existing NPT water injection fittings.
The control unit has a built-in engine room air temperature sensor and includes an output for an optional remote siren or for connection to an onboard warning/alarm system. Available for single or dual-engine installations, the SmartSeal kit includes a bulkhead mount control unit and sensor cable(s). Remote units designed for mounting at helm or flybridge positions as well as various NMEA components are also available. SmartSeal main and remote units are IP66+ rated (waterproof for heavy spray and brief submersion) allowing units to be mounted in damp or wet locations. The panel mounted remote units are additionally O-ring sealed allowing use in locations that are exposed to rain or sea water (e.g. mounting on a flybridge). Installation guidelines and diagrams for NMEA and non-NMEA systems are available at www.gemeco.com/tidesmarine.
About Gemeco Marine Accessories
Gemeco Marine Accessories (GEMECO) is a wholesale distributor to thousands of marine electronics dealers throughout the USA and abroad. In addition to being the largest worldwide distributor of AIRMAR transducers, GEMECO offers products from over 150 manufacturers including NMEA 2000® networking components, radar mounts, antenna and GPS mounts, electrical and wiring accessories, hard-to-find and specialty marine connectors, as well as a broad range of installation and diagnostic tools. Located in Lake City, South Carolina, GEMECO has become a clearinghouse of marine products, technology and service. The company’s extensive inventory reflected in an expansive 700+ page catalog is available via same-day shipping, ensuring that GEMECO customers always have access to the products they need, and that orders arrive on time. www.gemeco.com
June means summer. Summer means tournaments. Nothing says tournaments quite like InTheBite.
Grab a copy of the latest June Issue, hitting the docks now!
The End Game – An Expert Breakdown
By Jarad “Dingo” Boshammer
Whether it be tournaments, record fishing or straight up fishing for fun, sportfishing is a team sport. When all goes according to plan and the time comes for the end game, the wireman’s job begins. The approach and techniques best applied to the leader depend on the species, tackle, and line class. The approach also depends on the goal of the encounter—whether a release, tag or gaff shot is the end game.
Photos courtesy: Kelly Dalling Fallon
A Wireman’s Supplies
Sunglasses are a must before engaging in any sort of leadering! I don’t care how much saltwater is on my glasses, they never come off when I’m on the leader. A couple guys I know have had a glass lens shatter, leaving shards of glass in their eyes. For this reason, I prefer polycarbonate. Footwear is also important. While you might get by without it for sailfish on light leaders (it is still a good idea), when it comes to gaffing fish on heavy leaders it is 100% necessary.
Another necessity is a tool belt. At the bare minimum you’ll need a release knife. You should never cut one off with an open blade – one head shake or wave and the result can be messy (slashed arms or thighs have happened). I always have an open bladed knife on my belt – it could turn into a backup release knife in an emergency only. Having two mates is always ideal and coaching each other is important. Regardless of skill level, I will always ask the other mate to carry the release knife in the center of their back. It is crucial that a release tool may be reached with either hand when you are on the leader.
The boat’s impact on leadering technique
My style of leadering will change depending on the boat. Most Aussie boats are in the 40-50-foot range. Australian boats have a minimum gunnel height that is required for surveyed vessels. The height minimum is relatively high. My knees generally fit below the covering board and touch the sides of the hull easily. Thighs should be placed against and below the gunnels for added security and leverage. This is the ideal situation for doing serious work.
When boats get bigger – with wider covering boards – I can’t find the hull side effectively. Without a hard surface for my knees, I am much more reliant on footwork for leverage. The sleek design of most modern boats causes the covering boards to hit right on, or slightly above, the ball of the knee. This allows for a solid contact but leaves nothing for you to tuck under and press your thighs against.
In the event of a bad wrap, swallow your pride and let everyone know. Once that’s done, tuck in deep. Even 550-pound leader will usually break before anything serious happens if you get deep, below the gunnels and lock on. For this reason, it’s important to know your boat and cockpit well.
It’s also important to know your tackle. Know the limits of every crimp, knot and connection. Crimpers should be dialed in and every connection broken on a line testing machine. When gear is being pushed to the limits, it pays to have confidence and know your gear inside out.
In the event that a fish goes under, a drastic decision needs to be made. In some cases, it is better to hang on rather than to dump. If your leader is much heavier than the main line, it could be better to have the stronger of the two make contact with the boat. If the fish makes a sprint, goes under the boat and you dump, the captain needs to use the outside engine in reverse and throw the wheel to the fish. Trying to drive forward out of this situation will run the main line over almost every time. It is crucial to reverse and spin away from the main line and leader putting the fish of your bow.
Fish Behavior: The effect of the fight on your approach
Paying attention to the fish during a fight is very important. The behavior can give an idea of hook placement – or lack thereof. Taking photos of jumping fish can also help. When zooming in and seeing good hook placement, my confidence and the drag both go up.
What signs in a fight tell you to be careful? A couple indicators are radical head shakes or abnormal behavior. These could be signs of a hootered fish or where the hook point has hit a sensitive bony position at the base of the bill. In this case your best option is light drag, staying behind the fish and using gentle hands on the leader. Try to stay low; don’t encourage the fish to jump.
A fish that has done nothing at all is another concern, especially on bait. This often means the hook has not found a home and it is only a matter of time before the fish will gag out the bait. In this case, stay behind the fish, use light drag, be gentle on the leader and pray the fish does all the wrong things.
Heavy leader, big fish
Pulling hard on leader is a blast – making fish jump and do crazy stuff is what I love. This, however, is not always the right practice. When getting close enough for a photo release, tag or kill shot during a tournament, the ability to take the leader smoothly and take wraps without the fish noticing is a great skill to have.
On heavy leader with big fish, the back wrap is a must-have in your arsenal. When taking a back wrap, you would start by pulling the leader down with one hand and wrapping with the other. The hand taking a back wrap will be thumb down, with the leader hitting the outside of your hand (nearest your pinky finger).
When the leader breaks over the outside of your hand, take it with all four fingers and rotate your hand until your thumb is on top. With the other hand bring the leader between your thumb and forefinger. This completes the first wrap and then the standard technique is required for the second wrap. This technique allows you to make your first wrap (instead of taking it against the pressure of the fish). The back wrap technique known very well by any heavy tackle expert especially when large marlin or giant bluefin tuna are involved.
Standard wraps are taken after you pull the leader down with one hand – with the other palm up and thumb out. The leader should hit between thumb and forefinger first. Start taking your hand up and then rotate outwards, bringing it down in a circular motion. Try not to take large windmill-like wraps, focusing rather on tight wraps with equal pressure. Take a second wrap on the same hand as soon as possible. If the fish is digging, use your spare hand over the one with wraps and pull with two hands. Then use the spare hand to do the same thing.
Taking wraps, however, is not always the first move. If the fish is up high and you’re backing down fast, the best thing to do is hand-over-hand, anticipating when the weight will come. Take your first set of wraps when the time is right. Often that time is when the boat is slowed down or when you are already close enough to the fish.
When preparing for wraps, keep your arms bent with your hands low and close to your body. This will provide a shock absorber, buffering against leaders breaking, hooks pulling or getting straightened. If the fish jumps on the leader, you’ll have a little give and might not need to dump the line. There is nothing worse than dumping a fish and the double line not even leaving the rod tip. That being said, hanging onto smaller fish too long and flipping them over is very dangerous.
Anglers should back off the drag on heavy tackle as soon as you have wraps. If you have to dump the leader and the drag is up high, the pressure on the reel will go from nothing to a lot in a split second. This can reef anglers out of the chair or turn them into frogs – with knees behind their ears. With wind-on leaders, the most common mistake is cranking a mate’s hand up and trapping wraps on the glove. The lighter drag, in this case, will enable the wireman to pull his hand down to a comfortable and safe height. Be careful, however, not to backlash the reel when doing so.
The Kill Shot
Securing a trophy fish with gaff is one of the most challenging in most events in sportfishing. When preparing to harvest a fish, safety comes first— no matter what. No matter how big the fish may be or how much money is on the line, it isn’t worth losing an eye ball or joining the underwater wireman’s club. Accidents can happen to anyone and we all must have respect for the fish and the ocean. When it comes to getting hurt (or worse), the first saying I was taught was, “There are those who have and there are those who have not, yet.”
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