Boat Security Solutions for Today’s Center Console
Tuna Tube Solutions for Center Consoles
By Capt. Adam Peeples
The ability to keep several large live baits swimming is a must for anyone serious about live bait fishing for marlin, big tunas, and a host of other species that require baits that will not survive in a typical live well. Tuna tubes are the most effective way to accomplish this feat. There are a wide variety of options for tuna tube installation and plumbing on center consoles.
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From glassed-in, permanent installs that cost in the tens of thousands of dollars to homemade PVC tubes sourced from the local home improvement store, the options are endless. No matter which setup you choose, ensuring the tubes work properly and keep the baits alive is the most important aspect of it all. The correct installation and plumbing of your tuna tubes is paramount for having a live bait system that works as intended.
According to Steve Katz with Steve’s Marine Service Inc., tuna tube water flow should be straight, non-turbulent, and spread across the entire fish’s face. The tuna opens his mouth when he wants to breathe, and the water flow shouldn’t power wash him in the face with unnecessary force. The unique issue with high-performance center consoles, especially stepped hull vessels, is finding the correct place to install the pick-up to draw enough water needed to supply the tubes while underway at high speeds.
Katz has installed a myriad of tuna tubes on everything from large sportfish vessels to high-performance center consoles. He states that finding a location for a high-speed pickup on a stepped hull vessel can be the most difficult part of the process. If the pick-up is not in a location where it can draw constant water at high speeds, the entire system could fail to supply enough clean water to keep the baits alive while underway.
Water Supply Options
From the through-hull pick-up, there are a couple of different options to push the water into the lines that will supply the tubes. Sea chests and pump boxes are the two most effective ways to deliver the water to the tubes, though some captains have had success running the pick-up straight to an inline pump to supply the tubes directly. A simple two tuna tube system would likely be fine running on a single inline pump, but the chance for turbulent water to enter the system or for the pump to get airlocked is much greater than running from a sea chest or pump box.
A sea chest is a sealed box that is connected to the thru-hull and vented above the water line. It is typically designed with multiple outputs that can be connected to pumps to supply tuna tubes, live wells, and even raw water washdowns. The chest ensures that all the pumps have a supply of clean non-turbulent water to satisfy the needs of the system.
A pump box is similar in design but contains the pumps inside the box and submerged in water. The box is typically rigged with the however many 1500/2000 GPH bilge pumps it takes to get the job done. Since the pumps are contained inside of the box, a pump box can save significant room on a center console install where bilge space is at a premium.
Water Delivery
Delivering the water from the pumps to the tubes should be straight forward and direct. Avoid 90-degree joints, as these contribute to loss of flow and increase the amount of turbulence and bubbles in the water supply. Katz emphasized the need for flow control devices to moderate the amount of water supplied to the bait. Valves, variable speed pumps, and multiple pumps are all potential solutions to control the flow and keep a variety of baits alive.
Keep in mind that different bait species have varying water flow requirements. Your tuna tube system should have variable flow options to optimize the ability to keep different species and sizes of baits alive. Katz recommends a manifold system so that outgoing seawater can be routed to the necessary live well or tuna tube or combined when additional flow is needed.
It is also worth noting that the shape of the actual tuna tube can affect the longevity of your baits. While a circular tube can keep baits alive, the baits may tend to spin while immersed in a round tube with a high volume of water flow hitting them. Many tuna tube systems now use oval shaped tubes to prevent the bait from spinning, creating a system that can keep baits alive and frisky for extended periods of time.
Ultimately, there is no one size fits all solution for tuna tube systems. Every boat will have unique rigging problems to solve with various solutions to solve them. At the end of the day, the goal is keeping those baits alive and at the ready, and every tuna tube system should be able to accomplish that mission when properly rigged.
Do you have any comments or questions for us? We’d love to hear from you.
Long Range, High Performance: The Modern Center Console
By Capt. Adam Peeples
While sportfish captains in the Northern Gulf of Mexico and beyond have using fuel bladders to extend the limits of their range for some time, up until a few years ago it was not a common sight at billfish tournaments to see a center console loaded for bear, packing 200 gallons or more of extra fuel on the deck.
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Legendary captain and angler Dr. JJ Tabor and his team shattered all preconceived notions of what a center console can accomplish by winning the 2015 Blue Marlin Grand Championship out of Orange Beach, Alabama. Carrying an extra 150-gallons of fuel in a bladder on the deck, Tabor and his team caught the winning blue marlin while making an 800-mile round trip aboard his 42 Freeman.
Tabor and company hooked the fish on the final morning of the tournament, ultimately putting the winning blue marlin on the deck around 11 a.m. At that point, they were around 300-miles from Orange Beach and had to make the weigh-in no later than 6:30 pm for the fish to count. With the speed that only a high-performance center console can provide, Dr. Tabor and his team were able to make the weigh-in and win the tournament, even with a stop for extra fuel on the way home.
This signature win demonstrated to the tournament scene and everyone watching that center console crews were no longer in these major marlin tournaments just for the wahoo and tuna calcuttas. With the ability to hold extra fuel and the speed of an outboard-powered center console, crews such as Tabor’s may now even hold a slight advantage over the larger, slower sportfish boats given the right conditions.
Safety Precautions
While rigging a fuel bladder on the deck of a center console may sound simple enough, there are many unique safety precautions that should be adhered to in order to transport and use gasoline safely aboard an open fishing boat. The obvious difference between transporting diesel in a bladder versus gasoline is the extremely volatile nature of gasoline. With a much lower flash point than diesel, gasoline vapors always have a very high chance of ignition with even the smallest of sparks.
A fuel bladder filled with gasoline sitting in the sun on the deck of a center console is a potential fireball waiting to happen. Aside from the obvious rule of no smoking on the boat, care should be taken that there is no exposed wiring or any other potential spark producer on or near the boat while carrying gasoline on the deck. In addition to the fire hazard of gasoline, a 250-gallon bladder weighs in around 1500-pounds.
Securing the Bladders on Deck
This extra weight must be secured properly to ensure it does not slide around on the deck. Care must also be taken to ensure that your vessel is not overloaded with the extra weight of fuel in addition to all the gear and crew on board. A center console at or above load capacity could experience a catastrophic event in moderate or heavy seas if the bladder were to shift hard to one side.
Tabor recommends using a series of 2” nylon ratchet straps to form a cradle for the bladder, thus ensuring it does not shift while underway in rough seas. Dr. Tabor credits the stability and load carrying ability of his Freeman 42LR to safely transport his crew, gear, and 250-gallons of extra fuel to the fishing grounds.
Fuel Transfer Considerations
Transferring fuel from the bladder to the main tank is another step that must be taken with safety in mind. Most crews use a transfer pump to lift the gas from the bladder into the main fuel tanks. Care must be taken to ensure that the transfer pump is designed for gasoline and not for diesel. The internal design of gasoline transfer pumps is different than that of diesel pumps and using an incorrect and/or cheap transfer pump could lead to an accident.
After burning off enough fuel in the tanks to make room for the fuel in the bladder, the transfer pump can then empty the bladder into the main tanks. The empty bladder can then be safely stowed out of the way. In addition, it is recommended to only transport a fuel bladder on the deck when it is full. Although some crews may be tempted to run a direct line from the bladder to their outboard fuel lines and let the motors drain the bladder while underway, a half-empty bladder is much more prone to shifting and sliding on the deck. Unlike the main fuel tanks in center consoles, there are no baffles to prevent the fuel from sloshing around inside the bladder.
The success of Dr. Tabor and other center console crews on the blue marlin tournament circuit has made it clear that high-performance center consoles are fully capable of competing with the sportfishing yacht crews who have traditionally dominated these competitions. Modern center console boats have the capability of making over 1000-mile journeys with the extended range fuel bladders provide. “Going long” is no longer a shortcoming of the center console crew.
This extended range, coupled with the ability to cruise at high speeds for long distances will often give the center console crew more time with baits in the water. They can get to the marlin grounds first and be the last to leave (not to mention the fact that speed and range gives the opportunity to tournament fish in areas that are out of reach to others). These advantages alone will likely lead to more center console tournament wins in the future.
Do you have any comments or questions for us? We’d love to hear from you.
The Weaver 41 Center Console
Photo courtesy Weaver Boatworks
Designed for the offshore lifestyle, the new Weaver 41 Center Console is a highly-anticipated addition to the Weaver Boatworks family. The 41 is a high-performance center console that caters to the offshore sportfishing world for longer trips in a shorter amount of time. Work on the boat started in November 2019 and with a new paint job recently completed, the 41 is ready for sea trials.
Specs
- LOA: 38′ 9″
- Beam: 11′ 6″
- Motor: Suzuki 350
- Seakeeper
- Standup Head and Shower
- Microwave
- Cooktop
- Panda Generator
- Livewell
- Fish Boxes
Do you have any comments or questions for us? We’d love to hear from you.
Fighting Big Fish from A Center Console
By Capt. Adam Peeples
When I head offshore for a day of fishing my wife, Cadence, almost always says, “I hope you catch a big one today!” Catching a big fish is probably every captain and angler’s goal on any given fishing trip. We obsess over gear, baits, weather, moon phase, lucky shirts and hats – the list goes on. One thing that often gets overlooked, however, is the actual battle of man versus fish.
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When it comes to your average charter customers or other inexperienced anglers that I take offshore, one common theme emerges: most have never realized how much work is involved in catching a large game fish. Fighting a fish in a stand-up harness from a center console has its own unique challenges – complete with advantages and disadvantages. Obviously, it would be preferred that everyone who straps into a stand-up harness has prior experience, but we all must start somewhere.
Over the years, I have had the pleasure of putting many rookies into the harness for their first battle with a swordfish, marlin or tuna. I always start the same way: by explaining the entire process, from hookup to endgame, to the angler. Ideally, this conversation takes place prior to fishing, as I believe this allows their brain to process the information and better prepare them for the ensuing battle. One point of emphasis is the physicality of fighting big game fish in a stand-up harness.
As my operation is based in Fort Walton/Destin, Florida many of my clients are on vacation. I make a point to stress the importance of staying well hydrated the day before the trip. I also ask them to please refrain from hitting the local watering holes too hard the night before. Preparing for what could be an hour plus battle in a standup harness is like getting ready for a 5k run. Showing up dehydrated and hungover is a sure-fire cause for the angler to end up “tapping out”, failing to finish the fight.
After we have thoroughly discussed the details of the fight, I like to get the angler fitted into the harness on the boat. Prior to fishing, I will strap the angler into a rod and put some pressure on the rig so they can feel what it will be like to have 20 or more pounds of drag pulling on them during the fight. This process will also help to identify any uncomfortable points on the harness that may need to be adjusted.
This is also a great time to teach the technique involved with a stand-up harness. Five minutes of practice in the harness pays dividends for the angler when they have an angry fish on the other end of the line. Proper technique in the harness will keep the angler in better shape for longer fight times and could be the difference between the angler catching the fish or calling it quits beforehand.
Safety is critical when someone is strapped into a harness with a fish. Keeping a hook knife attached to the harness is a must. Also, someone on the boat is always tasked with spotter duty. The spotter will shadow the angler, provide water if needed, and in the event the angler loses their balance, they are there to make sure the person strapped in doesn’t fall overboard.
Ensuring the angler understands how to easily unclip from the harness is another critical safety precaution. There are many stand-up harness options available. My personal preference is a harness without closed d-ring style lug clips – which could become a safety issue with getting someone out of the harness. The angler should be able to unclip from the harness lugs quickly and easily.
Once we achieve a hookup, the strategy of fighting the fish from a center console will vary depending on the species. In most situations, I like to position my angler near the stern on either the port or starboard side.
My goal as the captain is to keep the line near a 45-degree angle away from the motors. From this position, I can easily motor forward in a slight turn to help the angler gain line or make a slight turn away from the fish to help the angler stay tight if needed. I typically fight fish on the port side of my boat, as it is the side nearest the helm and allows me a good line of sight on both the angler and fish.
Fighting a marlin from a center console requires a lot of boat driving, and I will move the angler around often during the fight. A swordfish or tuna requires a little less boat driving, and I can generally keep the angler in the same position throughout the fight.
Fighting fish from a stand-up harness on a center console is an effective way to land virtually all big game species. When used with proper technique, a stand-up harness allows the angler the ability to stay in the fight for the long haul. As with all big game fishing tactics, practice and preparation are key to success.
Do you have any comments or questions for us? We’d love to hear from you.
Electronics Packages for the Modern Center Console
By Capt. Adam Peeples
Selecting an electronics package for a center console is no simple task. Multi-Function Displays (MFDs), sounders, transducers, autopilots, radar, forward-looking infrared (FLIR), and boat handling technology such as Yamaha HelmMaster give the boat owner a seemingly endless list of options to choose from.
Settling on the package of products that works for your situation, involves wading through the sea of choices and ultimately selecting the manufacturer and components that suits your needs.
Garmin, Simrad, Furuno, and Raymarine are the primary manufacturers of complete electronic packages for center consoles. I personally prefer Garmin electronics, as their user interface is extremely intuitive, and I have the most experience operating Garmin systems. All of the top marine electronics manufacturers make a solid product that can get the job done.
The electronic systems on your boat should aid in navigation and increase your ability to find and stay on your target species. Electronics should make your boat a safer and more effective fishing platform. When outfitting a boat, it is wise to ask the question, “How will this system help me?” If there isn’t an easy answer to this question, you could bypass the addition of the product or system.
While brand preference is a personal choice, the basics of a center console electronics package comes down to two things: navigation and fishing capabilities. The electronics you install on your boat will either help you navigate or catch fish. Any systems that do not accomplish one of these things aren’t necessarily not needed, but are excluded from this article.
The Multi-Function Display is the piece of equipment that ties all the electronic system together. After installation, the multifunction display is the part of the system that most users will interact with most often. While it is possible to get by with only one MFD, the ideal setup will have two or even three. This will allow you to monitor multiple systems such as the chart plotter, radar, and sonar easily, while giving the crew the added safety of redundancy. Being 50 miles offshore and having your boat’s only MFD go south is not a good scenario.
Garmin’s GPSMAP 8612xsv is a 12” touchscreen monitor that is NMEA 2000 network capable. Packing a wide array of features, this MFD networks sonar, radar, cameras, and media such as Sirius satellite weather services and is available from 10” to 24”. It offers wifi capabilities to pair with a smartphone app through which users can monitor and control all the systems on the boat. Other manufacturers offer similar, equally capable MFDs.
In my opinion, it really boils down to which user interface one prefers. Once you have decided on an MFD, the rest of the process is a bit easier. For many boaters, the rest of the electronic systems on the vessel will be from the same manufacturer that produces your MFD. At this point, where you fish and how you fish will dictate the requirements for the rest of the electronics package.
Radar is a must have for navigating at night and during periods of limited visibility. A high-performance open-array radar such as Garmin’s GMR 606 xHD provides not only
the safety of navigational and weather reading capability but is also powerful enough to find birds working tuna schools. A smaller and more compact dome radar, such as the Garmin GMR 18 xHD, has ample power for close range navigational use and weather reading out to 48 miles.
A good sounder and transducer are vital to just about all types of offshore fishing. While products like Garmin’s XSV line of MFDs contain processing capability for your bottom machine, a sounder such as the GSD-26 will allow you to get the most out of your transducer.
Compressed High-intensity Radar Pulse (CHIRP) technology transmits across a range of frequencies—traditional sonar relies on a single frequency. CHIRP provides better target distinction at depth. Rather than seeing a single mass of tuna 300’ under the boat, CHIRP allows you to see the individual fish while distinguishing between the target species and bait returns.
The advantages of CHIRP over traditional sonar make it a must have on any offshore boat. The transducer is the key to bringing the entire fish finding capabilities of the system together. With bilge space being tight on most center consoles, a compact CHIRPready transducer is ideal for most systems.
Craig Cushman, the Director of Marketing for the AIRMAR Technology Corporation, says that the most popular AIRMAR transducer for center consoles is the B175 series of thru-hull transducers. Requiring a hole of only 3 7/8” hole and taking up minimal space in the bilge, the 1kW B175 supplies powerful CHIRP capabilities in a small package. I have a B175H and a B175L on my Cape Horn.
They perform well for bottom fishing, deep dropping, and daytime sword fishing. For larger center consoles such as Captain Shane Toole’s 42LR Freeman Necessity, the option for larger and more powerful transducers exists. Fishing out of Orange Beach, Captain Toole describes AIRMAR’S R599 3kW CHIRP-ready in-hull transducer as his “secret weapon” for projecting a high-quality return of structure and bait.
Toole runs a full Garmin electronics package with two GPSMAP 8624s, a GHP-20 Autopilot, GSD-26 sounder paired with an AIRMAR B175H and a R599 CHIRP-ready transducer, GMR 606 xHD open-array radar, and a GXM-52 SiriusXM marine receiver. According to Toole, the capabilities of the system along with Garmin’s user-friendly interface increase his ability to find and stay on the fish.
Captain Adam Peeples runs the One Shot Charters out of the Destin, Florida area. In addition to running a first-class operation, Peeples is a combat veteran with two deployments in Iraq and a stint as an instructor at the US Army Sniper School to his credit.
Do you have any comments or questions for us? We’d love to hear from you.
Kite Fishing from a Center Console
By Capt. Adam Peeples
There is arguably no better way to present a live bait to a cruising game fish than by suspending it helplessly splashing on the surface of the water using a kite fishing setup. Kite fishing has typically been associated with the South Florida sailfish and king mackerel fisheries, but it’s not unusual to see a kite flying in many other areas of the world—the guys in California and Mexico are using them to great effect to catch tuna.
Kite fishing allows anglers to fish multiple live baits on the surface while keeping the mainline and leader out of the water. The obvious advantage here is that wary and leader shy gamefish only see a frightened and erratic live bait on the surface. Keeping everything out of site increases the likelihood of a bite when compared to a standard flat line drift bait set up—where the leader and terminal tackle are visible to the fish.
While both large sportfish vessels and center consoles can effectively fish a kite spread, center consoles have a definitive advantage when it comes to suspending live baits from a kite and drifting. For proof of this advantage, look no further than the sailfish tournament results in South Florida.
Captain Chris Lemieux of Le-mieux Charters in Boynton Beach, Florida offers kite fishing charters from his 27 Conch. An expert kite fisherman and captain, Lemieux’s kite fishing setup involves one or two Tigress specialty lite wind kites, which he says can be used in ninety percent of the conditions he typically encounters. Lemieux operates his kites on Diawa Tanacom electric reels rigged with 50-80lb braided line.
He typically fishes three baits per kite, with the first swivel set at 100’ and then 75’ between each clip. Captain Lemieux also deploys a sea anchor while kite fishing. The sea anchor slows the drift speed with the wind and current, allowing the kites to catch more air and fly efficiently. This setup allows Lemieux to freely drift while not having to man the helm.
He can effectively fish multiple flat lines and a single kite solo. Adding one crew member allows him to fish two kites and multiple flat lines. This is a real advantage over kite fishing from a sportfish, as the captain is not constantly at the helm keeping the bow into the elements. This allows the center console crew to do more with less, presenting many more baits with minimal crew requirements.
While not a common sight in the Northern Gulf of Mexico, there are a few captains who utilize the effectiveness of kite fishing to their advantage. Captain Tim Kline of Recess Fishing Charters out of Pensacola, Florida taps into his South Florida roots and is known to use a kite for multiple applications aboard his Contender 31T. You wouldn’t normally associate kite fishing with sword fishing, but Captain Kline loves to put a kite up while drifting for daytime swordfish offshore.
Kline says that his favorite thing about fishing a live bait from the kite is the ability to fish heavier leader to fool leader shy and picky yellowfin tuna. In addition to tuna, Kline has hooked blue marlin, white marlin, jumbo mahi, and even wahoo on the kite while sword fishing. He typically fishes one large blue runner on the kite while sword fishing and has a dedicated crew member operating the kite fishing setup.
He has his kite rigged on a Diawa Tanacom 1000 with 80lb braided line, with the clip about 100’ from the kite. He also uses the kite to target smoker king mackerel during the fall run in Pensacola bay. Kline fishes from the anchor and uses a similar kite setup but adds a second clip about 50’ from the first clip. This allows him to fish two baits on the kite and two flat line baits simultaneously, covering as much water as possible. Kline says the 360-degree fishability of a center console is a definite advantage of fishing a kite in both situations.
When it comes to live bait fishing, kite fishing is king. Just because kite fishing has typically been associated with the South Florida live bait sailfish fishery doesn’t mean there aren’t a host of other areas and fisheries that could benefit from utilizing kites to present live baits or even artificial offerings. West coast crews and even some Northern Gulf crews are having success bump trolling artificial flying fish from a kite for jumbo tunas.
With an incredible amount of options for various kites, rod holder setups, electric reels, and rigging, a beginner to kite fishing may feel a bit overwhelmed at first. As with any specialized fishing tactic, kite fishing requires a lot of practice to become proficient. Rather than just diving right in to running two kites and several baits, novice kite fishing anglers should start slow and build up their skillset.
Start with launching and recovering the kite from the boat with no baits, and gain confidence with your setup and crew. As the crew becomes proficient with one element of kite fishing, adding an extra bait or even adding a second kite will become much easier than just diving straight into a two-kite spread. For any crew serious about live bait fishing, kite fishing is a skill that should not go overlooked.
Valhalla Boatworks – High Performance Center Consoles with a Viking Pedigree
Last year, the Viking Yacht Company introduced Valhalla Boatworks – a new company dedicated to designing and building high-performance center consoles with the same Viking quality, craftsmanship and expertise. The Valhalla center consoles were recently on display at the 2020 Viking VIP Boat Show in Riviera Beach, Fl.
“Valhalla Boatworks was developed to allow our dealers and customers to fulfill a strong desire for high-end center consoles built by the Viking Yacht Company,” says Viking President and CEO Patrick Healey. “It’s a very exciting time and another important chapter in our history of building a better boat every day.”
The Valhalla Boatworks V Series consists of three outboard-powered deep-V monohulls from 33 to 41 feet. The boats are designed to excel as hard-core fishing boats and built to the highest levels of workmanship and fit and finish. The V-33, V-37 and V-41 are the result of the cooperative effort of the Viking Design & Engineering team and Michael Peters Yacht Design (MPYD).
The V Series utilizes MPYD’s patented Stepped-V Ventilated Tunnel running surface that reduces drag while increasing speed, stability and efficiency. Viking design traits can be found from stem to stern on the V Series boats. Proud bows, gently sloping S-shaped sheers, double forward chines, helm pods, raised toe rails and mezzanine seating are some of the hallmarks.
The many resources available to Viking’s vertically integrated company are at the disposal of Valhalla Boatworks. Major components of each build such as hardtops, marlin and gap towers and electronics packages are manufactured in-house by our experienced shipwrights to guarantee turn-key delivery for our customers.
On deck, a raised transom livewell, in-deck fish boxes, strategically located rod holders, a port dive door and an abundance of storage space are just a few of the standard features on each of these V Series boats.
They also feature a forward console lounge and optional port and starboard forward seating with forward-facing backrests. The consoles of these boats will feature rod storage, a head, a sink, and access to electronics, the electrical distribution panel and other critical components.
The V-33, V-37 and V-41 are powered by four-stroke outboards with horsepower ratings from 300 to 425 in twin, triple or quad configurations depending on the model. The efficiency of the stepped hulls and these direct-fuel-injected engines deliver best-in-class fuel economy and range. Power-assist hydraulic steering will be standard and joystick helm control systems will be optional for all three models.
For more info, visit www.valhallaboatworks.com
Targeting Marlin and Pelagics from a Center Console
Captain Adam Peeples runs the One Shot Charters out of the Destin, Florida area. In addition to running a first-class operation, Peeples is a combat veteran with two deployments in Iraq and a stint as an instructor at the US Army Sniper School to his credit.
By Capt. Adam Peeples
Here in the Northern Gulf of Mexico, we are fortunate to have an excellent marlin fishery. Whether live baiting blue marlin, pulling an all-around spread for pelagics, or targeting white marlin during the late summer with naked ballyhoo, there are plenty of options to get connected with a feisty billfish.
Targeting marlin from a center console requires a slightly different approach from a large sportfish vessel. As most of my trips are charters, I am more likely to troll a variety pack in my spread than to specifically target marlin in most situations. I want to capitalize on a potential marlin bite, but I also want to appeal to the potential wahoo, mahi, or tuna that may be in the area. I’ve had success with pulling lures for marlin, but in some situations, I would rather put a couple of live baits out than dragging lures.
Setting Up for Both Scenarios on the Center Console
On my Cape Horn 31T, my typical spread for marlin and pelagic fish in general includes five hooked lures and three teasers, with a pitch bait on standby. Off the transom, I pull a set of bowling pin type teasers. I connect the teaser to the starboard transom cleat, and I use a laundry basket to store, deploy, and recover the teaser. The laundry basket works perfectly for keeping the teaser from getting fouled during deployment and recovery. It also makes it easy to move the entire rig out of the way while fighting a fish.
Next, I have Squidnation’s “Flippy Floppy Things” on both riggers. I have clamp-on teaser reels attached to the underside of the T-top within arm’s reach of the helm. This enables me to immediately retrieve one or both teasers in the event of a bite while never leaving the helm. The specific lures I pull will vary depending on the situation, but typically I start with a Moldcraft Super Chugger on the left flat.
The right flat behind the bowling pins is always going to be a dolphin scheme lure as the teaser itself is dolphin colored. It usually is a Black Bart Eleuthera Plunger, but sometimes I will switch that out with an Ilander Black Hole/Ballyhoo combo. And the left rigger will have an Ilander Sea Star/Ballyhoo combo, while the right rigger is my “wild card” position. I will switch this lure out with whatever I am in the mood for, often a skirted ballyhoo or Moldcraft Wide Range.
The shotgun is usually a Marlin Magic Ahi P bullet. The sweet spot on my boat is 1700 rpms. In most conditions this gives me a troll speed of 7-8 knots. If the seas are rough, then RPMs can vary based trolling down sea, beam to, or straight into the swell. Space comes at a premium on a center console, so when we get a bite, the primary objective is to first clear all lines and teasers.
All rods, the teaser basket, and any other loose items are moved to the bow of the boat and away from the angler. It is very important to keep the deck clear and free of obstacles while fighting a fish in a stand-up harness, especially in a battle that requires a lot of boat driving. I prefer to fight fish off the port side of the boat and have the angler move forward and aft as needed throughout the fight. When it is time to leader the fish, I direct the angler forward of the console while taking a slight left turn. This keeps the fish away from the props and allows the fish to be brought alongside the boat for a safe release.
The Effectiveness of Live Baiting
While pulling baits is my preferred method of fishing for marlin, there are circumstances when live baiting is more effective. I like to live bait around FADS, drill ships, and even on large pieces of flotsam that are holding bait. Not having tuna tubes, catching and storing several large marlin baits is not really an option for me. What I can do is catch the bait on location. Baits are immediately bridled and deployed so I can have two lively baits behind the boat in a matter of minutes.
Live baits, especially blue runners, love to find their way into the props and around the motors on an outboard powered boat. It’s a team effort to deploy each bait. As soon as the bait is bridled, it is pitched out to the side of the boat away from the motors. Simultaneously, I give the throttle a quick bump forward and pull away from the bait. I will continue to pull away from it until it is right where it needs to be behind the boat. The first bait out goes into the right rigger clip to keep the line off the water and help maintain separation between the second bait.
Putting the second bait out requires the same method; the only difference is that I run the second bait closer to the boat straight from the rod holder. After that, I simply bump troll the baits in the area I want to fish. I prefer using this technique when I am in a very fishy area and want to spend time working the same spot.
If you choose to target marlin from a center console, there are a multitude of rigging options and aftermarket products available to set up a center console for blue water fishing. I prefer to keep things simple on my boat, but the possibilities are endless for how technical one wants to be. Getting the bite is only one piece of the puzzle. Correctly positioning the angler, driving the boat, and the endgame of wiring and handling the fish are just as important to successfully catch marlin from a center console and should not be overlooked.
